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--DINING GUIDE--

AERA 2002 in NEW ORLEANS


         Welcome to the Big Easy. This list represents an effort to describe some of the most noteworthy restaurants in New Orleans. Because Bruce didn't eat at home during his last several years in New Orleans, prior to his move to Texas A&M University, and still eats in N.O. a lot, and Betty and Pat live in New Orleans and enjoy eating out there, we think the list is fairly comprehensive.
         Last year Travel & Leisure magazine ranked New Orleans the third best food city in the world (behind New York City and Paris)! But in the history of this great eating city, no other year has hosted so many new restaurant openings than 2001.
         The places listed here are very good to excellent in the quality of the food they serve, and also tend to be consistent. Service wasn't a primary consideration in ratings, unless the service tends to be extraordinarily good or bad. We've put a "Q" in front of restaurants located in the French Quarter area, which are walkable, and we listed disproportionately more of these places. The letter grades in the description have been proven by Generalizability theory to be perfectly reliable, and are inexplicable holistic judgments of the complete dining experience [remember, though, we are hard graders]. One "$" = approximately $10. Comments at the end provide a greater representation of more casual places.

--Betty Davidson
   University of New Orleans
--Patricia Snyder
   LSU Health Sciences Center
--Bruce Thompson
   Texas A&M University and
   Baylor College of Medicine (Houston)

Note. Although some of the ranked places are reasonably affordable, places that are even more affordable are listed in the last paragraph, as also are places other than restaurants (drinking locales, breakfast locations, sandwich places, and so forth).

(Generally Rank Ordered)

1. Q Peristyle. When AERA met in the Big Easy 2 years ago, Betty was in a huge funk because a fire had closed this, her favorite restaurant (not to mention the theft one night of all the shutters off her Garden District home). To her delight both situations have now been remedied. Lunch is served here on Fridays, but don't get your hopes up about eating there at that sitting. However, dinner is served Tuesday through Saturday. Chef Anne Kearney Sand was recently on the cover of the Wine Spectator. One of Betty's favorite dishes is the combination of lump crabmeat and beets--that's right beets--held together by a light mayonnaise based ravigote sauce. On a recent visit Bruce was delighted with an unusual and delicious presentation of trout almandine. (Go with the seafood.)
         1041 Dumaine Street, best to take a cab given its location, reservations essential, 593-9535. $$$$, A+. Dressy casual.

2. Quasi-Q August. August Duke Robins from the "Bayou" country loved the food at the Grill Room in the Windsor Court Hotel created by chef John Besh. In fact, his passion was so great that he spent $4,000,000 to build his own new restaurant across the street from the Windsor Court and hired as the chef, you guessed it, John Besh. The chef seems somewhat eccentric, but his cooking reflects passion and creativity (always appreciated by us ed researchers). Bruce considers superb duck a great challenge, but here (crispy skin while still moist and flavorful) a grand success.
         301 Tchoupitoulas, walking distance from Canal Street, lunch M-F; dinner M- Sa., reservations a must, 299-9777. $$$$, A+. Dressy causal.

3. Eleven 79. This new restaurant is located in a tiny cottage more or less under the Mississippi bridge in the Warehouse District. Chef Anthony DiPiazza's Creole-Italian food is "lusty," particularly in the seafood department. A flower already in bloom with even better things to come.
         1179 Annunciation, short cab ride, reservations a must, 299-1179. $$$$, A. Dressy casual.

4. Brigtsen's. This is a wonderful restaurant in the Riverbend area situated in a quaint old house with an intimate feel. Prepare for an exquisite cajun/creole meal. If the grilled rabbit tenderloin is on the menu, order it. Any of the veal dishes are wonderful and so is the banana bread pudding.
         723 Dante Street (Maple and River Road), short cab ride, reservations a must, 861-7610. $$$$, A+. Dressy.

5. Quasi-Q Grill Room in the Windsor Court Hotel. Only the Grill Room would dare fly in fresh oysters from the Pacific Northwest to serve in New Orleans--and then prove the genius of that inspiration. The chef's hand with the world-class ingredients yields sure success in this luxuriously-appointed restaurant that continues to set the highest local standards.
         300 Gravier Street, just off Canal Street, reservations a must, 522-1992. $$$$$, A+. Dressy.

6. Q Bayona. This restaurant was opened with one of New Orleans' first woman chefs, Susan Spicer, at the helm. All the dishes are a wonderful experience of subtle flavors. The entrees and the desserts are the main draw, though the garlic soup is certainly interesting. Entrees include wonderful scallops or a perfectly done pompano. Desserts include a fabulously rich chocolate cake or scrumptious lemon ice cream. If you go for lunch, Betty recommends the duck sandwich.
         430 Dauphine, reservations required, 525-4455. $$$$, A. Dressy.

7. Gabrielle. This restaurant is the creation of a husband and wife team, Greg and Mary Sonnier. The menu changes, but the finest local ingredients and a Creole heritage always contribute to an outstanding dining experience. Don't miss the Oysters Gabie, if available. You won't go wrong ordering any of the pork dishes or fish specials. Save room for an outstanding desert special.
         3201 Esplanade (between Broad and Carrollton), reservations a must, 948-6233. $$$$, A. Dressy.

8. Q Bistro at Maison de Ville. Over the years this restaurant has been the home of a series of New Orleans' top chefs. The current chef, Greg Picolo, is no exception. The menu is (happily) unpredictable, but always consistently wonderful. The dining room is very small, so reservations are a must, courtyard dining is also an option. Some favorites that Pat has enjoyed here include escargots on grilled rosemary flatbread, grilled sea scallops with saffron risotto, and creme brulee.
         733 Toulouse Street, reservations a must, 528-9206. $$$$, A. Dressy.

9. Q Dominique's. Located in the Maison Dupuy Hotel in the Quarter, this restaurant is home to acclaimed chef Dominique Macquet. In addition to several international honors, New Orleans Magazine a couple of years ago named Macquet "Chef of the Year." Here the food is French-based, complemented with Louisiana and other international influences. On one visit the filet mignon with Pinot Noir shallot jus and cappuccino tirami su were pretty tasty (a.k.a. outstanding)!
         Maison Dupuy Hotel, 1001 Toulouse Street, reservations recommended, 586-8000. $$$$, A, Dressy.

10. Gautreau's. This restaurant's setting is both part of its attraction and part of its distraction--the setting in an old drugstore complete with tin ceiling (thank God they removed the tile floor that created an echo chamber). The food is excellent with a changing menu. A couple of years ago when Bruce was there his companion kept moaning during dinner, and other diners thought they were trapped in a remake of "When Harry Met Sally".
         1728 Soniat, cab ride, reservations a must, 899-7397. $$$, A-. Dressy.

11. Q Gamay Bistro & Bar. Another restaurant owned by Greg and Mary Sonnier. Open for lunch on Fridays only and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Gamay can best be described as more "city oriented with Creole" food whereas Gabrielle is more country with a Cajun flavor.
         320 Decatur Street, reservations recommended, 299-8800. $$$$, A. Casual.

12. Herbsaint. Another Susan Spicer restaurant that offers a smaller menu than Bayona and often has some different choices such as wild game dishes. Betty likes the salad with dried figs, toasted walnuts, blue cheese and a sherry vinaigrette.
         701 St. Charles Avenue, very short cab ride or catch the streetcar, exit at Julie Street and walk back towards Canal Street one block, reservations recommended, 524-4114. $$$; A. Dressy casual.

13. La Provence. This restaurant is located across the 27-mile long Causeway spanning Lake Ponchatrain, and is rated somewhat lower here on the basis of its distance, although this can be a fun excursion for those with cars or limos. The food is magnificent. The style is continental. Every dish is an experience. The chef is somewhat shy while being a character at the same time; ask that he stop by to say hello for a minute and enjoy his company along with his extraordinary cuisine.
         HWY 190 between Mandeville and Lacombe, only feasible with a rented car or a local friend, reservations required, 626-7662. $$$$$, A+. Dressy.

14. Mosca's. This is a wonderful, unpretentious (it was neater when the paint was peeling off the building so you could get guests wondering if you were crazy to take them there to eat) but distant Italian restaurant that's especially fun with a group of at least four people--order various dishes and share them family style. Always take enough people to try oysters Mosca (oysters baked in seasoned bread crumbs cooked and served inside a round cake pan--yum), barbecued shrimp (actually baked in butter with ample garlic), and a scrumptious chicken dish.
         4137 HWY 90, only feasible with a rented car or a local friend, CASH ONLY, reservations only on Friday night, 436-9942. $$$$, A+. Casual.

15. Q Pelican Club. In a handsomely renovated French Quarter townhouse, chef-owner Richard Hughes, a Louisiana native, collaborates with Singapore-born chef de cuisine Chin Ling on dishes that can dazzle. Their influences are many and multiethnic, but intriguing and subtle.
         312 Exchange Alley at Bienville Street, reservations a must, 523-1504. $$$$, A. Dressy.

16. Q Irene's Cuisine. A wonderful, small restaurant. NO RESERVATIONS are taken, but a bar area where you can wait has been set up in the parking garage behind the restaurant. Lots of fresh herbs, garlic, and olive oil in all the dishes. The mussels marinara and the roasted chicken are especially delicious.
         539 St. Philip Street, walk, 529-8811. $$$$, A. Casual dressy.

17. Q Galatoire's. This restaurant is a New Orleans tradition. Lunch brings the corporate attorneys out, and dinner the tourists. We are fond of this restaurant, though we are admittedly prejudiced by its history and our happy memories. Reservations are now accepted for the recently created upstairs. Otherwise, if you come at a peak time, be prepared to sit 30-45 minutes drinking in the upstairs bar while you wait for a downstairs seating for which reservations are not taken. Alternatively, come around 11 or 1:30 to avoid the big crowds and get lunch (none of our papers are scheduled then anyway). The menu is extensive and fixed. We do not recommend the soups here--they tend to be more in the Mississippi tomato rubric than the New Orleans tradition. We love oysters en brochette, though the shrimp remoulade and the oysters rockefeller are excellent. The Gaucheaux's salad (may not be listed on the menu, but ask for it) is excellent, and the crabmeat sardou (may also not be listed) or the soft-shell crabs meuniere are both especially good.
         209 Bourbon, walk, 525-2021. $$$$, A. Dressy.

18. Chateaubriand. Girard and Eveline Crozier sold their restaurant Crozier's and took a 15 month holiday. They are back in New Orleans and have opened the Chateaubriand Steakhouse. Don't expect the same menu in the new restaurant because chef Crozier sold those wonderful recipes (especially the sauces) along with the restaurant. But the Croziers have managed to create the blend of elegance and comfort found in the best French bistros. Eveline has assembled an impressive 3,000 bottle cellar with 20 wines and three champagnes available by the glass. Go with the namesake entree (or the duck), and splurge with a penultimate bernaise.
         310 N. Carrollton Avenue, short cab ride, recommendations recommended, closed Mondays and Tuesdays, 207-0016. $$$$$, A. Dressy casual.

19. Taqueros. If you decide to make the trip to "Kenna," as we locals fondly refer to this New Orleans suburb, we promise you the trip will be worth it (despite what Betty may think about leaving Orleans parish). Located in a really tacky strip mall off Veterans Highway (behind a snowball stand [not the one Zagat's ranks the 4th best restaurant in New Orleans] and next to the Lucky Cue), this is one of the best-kept secrets in New Orleans. Chef Guillermo Peters performs miracles with both traditional and innovative dishes. Our recommendation would be to start with some extraordinary margaritas, while devouring the guacamole and ceviche. To top off your appetizers, Chef Guillermo makes an array of fresh-ingredient sauces/salsas that you can sample, if you so desire. Outstanding main course choices include broiled scallops in a pablano cream sauce, or any of the grilled fish choices.
         2723 Roosevelt Blvd., about 13 miles from the conference hotels, 441-8888. $$, B+. Casual.

20. Q NOLA. This is a more approachable (than Emeril's) restaurant also created by Chef Emeril Lagasse. The open-kitchen presents an interesting view for those who have not witnessed a very busy restaurant's behind- the-scenes operations, including a wood-burning oven and grill. The cedar-plank roasted fish dishes are consistently good. Other menu items vary, depending on who's doing the cooking. In true Emeril Lagasse style, the sauces on all the dishes are wonderful and typically are well-seasoned. Only the tourists shout "BAM" here! (AERA-ers--please try to fit in!)
         534 Rue St. Louis, reservations recommended, 522-6652. $$$$, B+. Dressy casual.

21. Commander's Palace. Both locals and tourists consider this, another offering from the Brennan family, one of the very best restaurants in the city. A couple of years ago Food & Wine magazine voted Commander's as their favorite restaurant in America [For some reason, Betty's vote counted several times more than Bruce's.]. The food we've eaten here has generally been extraordinary--especially noteworthy are creative and unique dishes, e.g., the trout with pecans. For dessert try the chocolate fudge sheiba or bread pudding souffle. The setting is lovely, particularly if you succeed in sitting in the Garden Room that overlooks the courtyard and oak trees. The restaurant is huge and other rooms or sitting areas vary in their appeal. The service is usually adequate.
         1427 Washington Ave, short cab ride, reservations a must, 899-8221. $$$$$, B+. Dressy.

22. Upperline Restaurant. This uptown neighborhood restaurant is a short cab ride from the Quarter, or take the streetcar, exit at Upperline Street, and walk toward the river. The restaurant is located on the left hand side just before Prytania Street. Can't go wrong with the tuna.
         1413 Upperline Street, reservations a must, 891-9822. $$$, B+. Dressy casual.

23. Christian's. This restaurant is located in a former church. The location is intriguing, and the food is consistent in its very high quality. The seating is a bit more crowded than we like, but not outrageously so. The steaks served with various sauces are very good, but the seafood is excellent here as well (just don't order the stuffed fish that comes out looking like a corndog). This is an excellent place to try softshell crab, if you haven't had the experience before. Homemade ice creams make lovely desserts.
         3835 Iberville, short cab ride, reservations recommended, 482-4924. $$$, B+. Dressy.

24. Quasi-Q Feelings. This restaurant is located in an old house with attached slave quarters (not a plantation). Bruce loves this restaurant for its charm and the warmth of its employees. This is good place for a relaxed long meal. Try any appetizer but the tacquito (the shrimp etouffe or the softshell crawfish are good), the soup if it's tomato bisque, any entree (especially seafood thermidor, shrimp clemanceau, veal dunouy) except the beef dishes (which are good but the sauces are less good), and finish with cheesecake or an interesting peanut butter pie.
         2600 Chartres, short cab ride, 945-2222. $$($), B. Casual dressy.

25. Camellia Grill. Exit the street car at the first stop after turning onto Carrollton Avenue off St. Charles Avenue. You'll see some patrons in white tie and others in tennis shoes in this one-of-kind, counter- service-only Uptown diner complete with linen napkins, tuxedo-clad waiters. The chili cheese omelettes, pecan waffles, burgers, and freezes are worth the wait.
         626 S. Carrollton Avenue, CASH ONLY, no reservations, 866-9573. $, B-. Casual.

Lagniappe (It's a New Orleans word!):
     --Cobalt. A third venture by owner/chef Susan Spicer. Cobalt is located in the Hotel Monaco, 333 St. Charles Avenue, three blocks off Canal.
     --Laffite's Landing (Donaldsonville, LA). Chef John Folse works miracles; too bad it's almost to Baton Rouge!: http://www.jfolse.com/bittersweet.html
     --Genghis Khan. Serving Korean specialties with live classical music. 201 Baronne Street, a few blocks from Canal Street.

OTHER (all Quarter, unless otherwise noted):
          Best gamble we haven't yet eaten at: Victor's in the new Ritz on Canal Street. Most romantic restaurant: Bella Luna at 914 N. Peters near Jackson Square. Good place to eat pastries and good coffee for breakfast: La Madelaine on the corner of Jackson Square near the cathedral, or La Marquise at 625 Chartres. Best place for a good hamburger: Port of Call at 838 Esplanade. If you want the hamburger with entertainment or just entertainment, Bruce suggests hearing Charmaine Neville at Snug Harbor at 626 Frenchman (just outside the Quarter) when she's there. Good place for a high view: top of the Hilton or the Top of the Mart next door (not as gracious as it used to be, but a rotating bar)--both at the foot of Canal; another good view is Kabby's in the Riverwalk. Very nice brunch with a view: Marriott; without a view, Commander's. Best oysters on the half shell: Acme Oyster House at 724 Iberville. Best place for a Pimm's cup and classical recorded music: Napoleon House at 500 Chartres. Best place for a muffaletta (split one-half of this sandwich with a friend so you have room for other experiences--just going in this old-style Italian grocery is a sensory experience): Central Grocery at 923 Decatur. Best garden tour: Longue Vue Gardens. Strongest and cheapest drinks: Pat O'Brien's at 718 St. Peter. Best bar with ashes of a dead human being (Irving): Molly's on the Market on Decatur in the Quarter. Best po' boy (A Great! N.O. sandwich on French bread with choice of filling, e.g., oysters, roast beef): Mother's on Prytania (walkable).

Things Definitely Not To Miss Under Any Circumstances
     1.  Mint Julip on the patio at Pat O'Brien's, at night
     2.  A muffaletta from Central Grocery on Decatur (at the very least go in and simply smell the store)
     3.  Jazz at Preservation Hall (if you like jazz)
     4.  Oyster or shrimp Po' boy at Mother's (don't go at a peak lunch or dinner time, or else!)
     5.  A drink at the new Ritz Hotel (you can at least afford that!)
     6.  Beignets and cafe au lait at the Cafe du Monde on Decatur

Things You Probably Shouldn't Miss
     1.  Pimm's cup at Napoleon House
     2.  Riding the ferry to Algiers landing
     3.  Dancing at the Dungeon on a side street off Bourbon (opens at midnight--features deafening music)
     4.  A trip to Uglesich's for lunch (1238 Baronne--definitely take a cab), a New Orleans one-of-a-kind institution, get there early, there are only about 10 tables. You sit among the onions and potato sacks that will become someone's meal tomorrow--don't miss the oyster po' boy sandwich!


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